Artur Hajzer
Plan: winter conquest of the Himalayas
Start of the Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering 2010-2015 programme
Goal: winter ascents to summits of five eight-thousanders

 

In the first half of November 2009 I submitted to the Board of Polish Mountaineering Association and High-Mountain Climbing Commision of Polish Mountaineering Association a sport programme – Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering 2010-2015 (available at: http://www.pza.org.pl/download/317276.pdf, it is sufficient to type Polski Himalaizm Zimowy - Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering - into the search engine on the website of Polish Mountaineering Association).
Until now, 9 out of 14 eight-thousanders have been ascended in winter (Mount Everest, Manaslu, Dhaulagiri, Cho Oyu, Kangczendzonga, Annapurna, Lhotse, Shisha Pangma, Makalu), therein 8 have been ascended by the Poles (one summit with participation of an Italian).
The following are still to be ascended:
– K2 (8,611 m),
– Nanga Parbat (8,126 m),
– Gasherbrum I (8,080 m),
– Gasherbrum II ( 8,034 m),
– Broad Peak (8,051 m).
The ascent of the above-mentioned summits is the main goal of the programme.
Currently Poland is a world-leader in winter Himalayan mountaineering. However, in the next winter season Russian, Italian, Austrian, Kazakh, Canadian and Spanish winter expeditions will take place. Therefore, Poles should act immediately, so that they will not lose the primacy.
In my opinion, the difficulties connected with prospective ascent to another eight-thousander in winter require contruction of a long-term sport programme, which could select and prepare competitors capable of achieving such a goal.
The programme also assumes:
– participation of additional public funds in the project,
– selection of broad participant list and long-term co-operation with the selected contestants,
– creation of long-term, individual training programmes (constant trainers’ guidance),
– regular unifications in the Tatra Mountains
– regular unifications on the seven- and eight-thousanders in summer,
– organization of one winter expedition per year.

A walk around the basecamp under the Broad Peak in winter 2008/09 – unsuccessful attempt to blaze a trail to civilization for potential porters. Considering the conditions (such as on the photo), base camps in Karakorum are accessible only by means of a helicopter.
Fot. Artur Hajzer
All of these shall be based on support and engagement of experienced Himalayan mountaineers – me and Krzysiek Wielicki. Until now, we have received the approval of the Board of Polish Mountaineering Association for the realization of the programme; the information about the project and a request to recommend some candidates have been sent to all clubs associated in Polish Mountaineering Association.
Until now, 25 people are interested in the programme (they want to take part in the next winter expedition or in the expeditions that are to be organized in the future, they are generally interested in Himalayan mountaineering as a discipline or in self-development in this direciton). However, in my opinion, it is just the beginning of the recruitment process and verification of candidates.
What are we preparing for?
All eight-thousanders unclimbed in winter are situated in Pakistan – in Karakorum and in the Western Himalayas; here the conditions are much more severer than in the Himalayas in Nepal or Tibet. The average temperature in Pakistan is 10 degrees Celsius lower (on average –35 degrees Celsius), and the wind is 40 km/h stronger (i.e. on average it blows 140 km/h).
 
Weather chart		 I have examined dozens of weather charts for 8,000 m during winter 2008/09 under the Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II. During the expedition that I have led at that time we have learnt that these weather forecasts prove correct and are 90% reliable. Wind strength is approximately 140 km/h, and can reach 180 km/h. It can be deduced from the charts, that there occur wind windows lasting several hours with wind strength close to 60 km/h, which provide a chance to attack. For example, on February 27, 2009 such window appeared at approx. 12 p.m. and lasted till midnight (however, it is impossible to walk at night in winter). It means that from the assault camp (several hundred metres of difference in levels) a person should ascend, or rather RUN to the summit and back in six hours! Otherwise – death (temperature on a thermometre: -35 degrees Celsius, sensible temperature: -70 degrees Celsius). It is worth mentioning, that the summer attack on an eight-thousander lasts 16-20 hours. For example – Denis Urubko runs from Azau up on Elbrus in 4 hours in summer (3400 m hight difference). And for such UPHILL RUN IN WINTER, up the mountain that is over 8,000 m, we have to be prepared!

Not only should one be a good climber, but also an excellent runner!
First stage of the programme: 2010.
First unification meeting in the Tatra Mountains already took place – we already climbed in winter in February and March 2010.
We also have to improve the climbing techniques beyond the Tatra Mountains – gain mountaineering experience and familiarize ourselves with specificity of acting at heights. Therefore, on May 19 the first summer unification expedition to Nanga Parbat sets off (a cheap mountain, i.e. for the beginning the expedition requires minimal costs and organizational input). There are 12 participants:
Aleksandra Dzik (Kandahar), Marcin Kaczkan (Mountaineering Club in Warsaw), Robert Szymczak – also as a doctor (Mountaineering Club in Trójmiasto), Robert Kazimierski (Mountaineering Club in Wrocław), Ireneusz Waluga (Mountaineering Club in Katowice), Jacek Czech (Mountaineering Club in Katowice), Rafał Fronia (non-member), Aleksander Grządziel (Mountaineering Club in Jastrzębie), Piotr Snopczyński (Mountaineering Club in Wrocław), Jerzy Natkański (Mountaineering Club in Warsaw), Jarosław Gawrysiak (University Alpine Club of Warsaw), Artur Hajzer (Mountaineering Club in Katowice) – leader.
Return on July 1 and July 20. During this expedition Marcin Kaczkan and Artur Hajzer also consider attacking Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II, whereas Jerzy Natkański considers attacking Gasherbrum I.
Within the framework of preparations to the winter expedition, Wojciech Kozub, Krzysztof Starek and Daniel Piskorz from the Mountaineering Club in Cracow and Kuba Hornowski from the Mountaineering Club in Zakopane are going in August to the Pamir Mountains. Marcin Miotk (Mountaineering Club in Warsaw) goes to K2 as he is also interested in the winter expedition.
In the Ministry of Sport, during the negotiations concering the Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering 2010-2015 programme. On the photo from left: Robert Szymczak, Marcin Miotk, Krzysztof Wielicki, Janusz Onyszkiewicz, Marcin Kaczkan, Marek Wierzbowski. Below and from left: Arkadiusz Grządziel, Artur Hajzer, Wojciech Kozub.
The main goal of this year: winter and Broad Peak with an option of climbing K2 (if it is possible – we will find time and strength). This expedition ends the first stage of the project.

The plan for the following year is similar: unifications, groupings in the Tatra Mountains and summer expeditions to the Himalayas. In winter – attempts to ascend next eight-thousanders. Trainers’ guidance and creation of individual training programmes based on tests and examination for everyone are the novelty.
Where do we get the money from?
It seems that 60% of money will come from the financial resources of the Ministry of Sport and Tourism (we are carrying on negotiations), 40% from sponsors and participants. For the realization of the first stage, the necessary financial support from the Ministry amounts to 440 000 PLN (entire cost amounts to 733 000 PLN), and for the entire project – ca. 2 million PLN (entire cost 3.3 million PLN) within 5 years.
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